Specification S-NF

KASWELL & CO., INC.
P. O. Box 549
Framingham, MA 01704

INSTALLATION, OIL FINISHING, AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALNUT, FIR, HEMLOCK, MAPLE, OAK, BIRCH, MESQUITE, ASH PLY-TYPE & HORNBEAM END-GRAIN WOOD BLOCK FLOORING, STANDARD RED OAK, ASH, SANDLEWOOD, CERISEWOOD, TEAK, STANDARD WHITE OAK, DRY RECOVERED, RED OAK, WHITE OAK, CHESTNUT, HICKORY

CONDITIONING

When your blocks arrive on site they should be probed for moisture content and recorded. A log should be kept, recording the moisture content of the wood block on arrival, during installation, and after installation. The temperature and humidity in the storage and installation area should be recorded in the log as well. The length of acclimation will be determined by job conditions and block conditions. We are always available for consultation.

For acclimation purposes, all wood block should be stored at the job site in the room to be installed, either in palletized form or loose-scattered if possible, for a period of from two to ten days prior to being installed. The length of acclimation may be adjusted at the discretion of the installing contractor and is based upon atmospheric conditions at the time of year. In any event, the temperature of the area and building must be uniformly maintained at not less than 65 degrees F from before the first block delivery, through acclimation, as well as during and after the installation. Temporary heating units such as space heaters, etc. are not acceptable. The maximum relative humidity at any time should not exceed 60%.

Because of the possibility of wide variations in working conditions, the season of the year, the condition of the blocks when first delivered (i.e. moisture content), deviations and adjustments in the acclimation and installation schedules may be required. Decisions for these specification adjustments should be made by qualified or experienced wood flooring personnel. Therefore, Kaswell & Co., Inc. cannot accept the responsibility for results of installations made by others.

End-Grain Strip Block is kiln-dried to average moisture of interior rooms. Some individual blocks are kiln dried, others air dried. All blocks must be allowed to adjust to your specific room condition. Only after heating and air conditioned facilities are operating normally and assuming a room temperature between 65 and 75 degrees, then break the palletized units and re-stack or scatter loose in the room where the flooring will be installed for 2 days or longer. To be sure air reaches all material, re-stack in a vertical column each strip individually on edge, ½" apart (crosshatch). Do not store strips or individual blocks where humidity is abnormal.

DO NOT INSTALL UNLESS HEATING, AIR CONDITIONING, AND HUMIDITY CONTROL FACILITIES ARE IN FULL OPERATION AND ROOM CONDITIONS TOTALLY NORMAL.

CHECK CONCRETE SUB-FLOOR

The sub-flooring shall be depressed to block depth. If cork board is specified for added resiliency, allow for extra depth. A permanent and reliable waterproof membrane (Moistop, Franklin HydroBarrier III Foil, or equivalent) must be within or under the slab extending to all slab edges vertically above surface. Concrete slabs must be protected from outside moisture vapor. New slabs must be cured (at least 50 days old) and dry. Below grade installations are not recommended unless conditions are equivalent to properly protected slab above grade.

CHECK HUMIDITY

With reliable hygrometer of sling psychrometer (Kaswell & Co., Inc. will furnish if not conveniently available) check humidity, which should read between 35% and 50% assuming a 65 to 75 degree temperature. If humidity is not normal, postpone installation until conditions are normal.

CONCRETE SUB-FLOOR

Be sure concrete sub-floor is smooth and level. Tolerance should not exceed ¼” on a 10 foot straight edge in any direction. Check floor level with straight metal strip on edge. Double check edges and corners. Eliminate any washboard irregularity. All rough spots or gravel protruding must be ground smooth and low areas filled with leveling compound. If tolerance is not as specified, flooring contractor shall INSIST masonry contractor make necessary corrections.

WOOD SUB-FLOOR

Wood Block may be installed directly over wood or plywood sub-floors which are solid, level, and well ventilated below. There should not be any cupped area, or projecting nails. If Wood Block is to be installed on existing synthetic floor, ¼” plywood or untempered hardboard underlayment should be thoroughly nailed. Over vinyl's, apply Franklin's Blocker #611 to stop plasticizer migration.

INCREASED RESILIENCE

Optional: by installing ½” or thicker cork board between blocks and sub-floor.

EXPANSION VOID

Cork expansion perimeter is recommended for walls and columns ½” to 1-½” wide. Place on edge along walls and columns lumber or plywood strips uniformly equal to width of expansion joint. After installing blocks flush to strips, then remove strips leaving uniform void for expansion cork. In aisle ways and other narrow areas where blocks meets carpet or other flooring, the expansion void may be omitted.

DAMPPROOF SLAB (OPTIONAL)

This step may be omitted if you are certain the concrete (or other substrate) is adequately protected from moisture, either by its location or by a permanent and reliable vapor barrier under the slab. If there is doubt concerning the effectiveness of the vapor barrier, we suggest UltraSet Urethane Adhesive (manufactured by Bostik) be used, in lieu of our standard parquet mastic. The first application should by applied with a flat trowel, allowing the adhesive to be used as a primer and as a sealer. Allow to dry overnight. The second application should be applied with a 3/16” notched trowel for block installation. Or, use Franklin Hydrobarrier III Foil Membrane, see Franklin instructions.

APPLY BLOCK FLOORING MASTIC

Be sure surface is clean and free from dirt, oil, or grease. Store mastic for 72 hours at room temperature. Apply Kaswell's recommended block mastic to the concrete at the rate of 40 square feet per gallon. Use a square notched trowel ¼” deep, ¼” wide and ¼” centers for standard mastic. Open time 3 hours. Avoid high concentration of vapor and use with adequate ventilation.

NOTE:

Because of the possibility of wide variations in working conditions, the season of the year, the condition of the blocks when first delivered (i.e. moisture content), deviations and adjustments in the acclimation and installation schedules may be required. Decisions for these specification adjustments should be made only by qualified or experienced personnel. Therefore, Kaswell & Co., Inc. cannot accept the responsibility for results of installations made by others.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Strip Block is available in 4 net thicknesses, 1”, 1-½”, 2”, and 2-½”. Individual blocks are available from ½” to 4"”. Blocks are kiln dried, in Douglas Fir, Hemlock, Mesquite, Oak, Maple. Strips are assembled with soft aluminum wire spline into flexible strips. Tongue and Groove construction optional. Strip widths 3-1/8”, 3-3/8”, 4-3/8”, 4-5/8”, 5-3/8”. Strip length random (heavy 30” to 33"”). Strips are factory sanded to 40 Grit. Individual blocks are not factory sanded.

APPLY STRIP FLOOR

(Parallel Pattern). Snap lines to start and maintain squareness. Place first strip or block in corner parallel and tight to temporary lumber filler. Place adjoining strips or blocks hand tight to the next piece. Avoid crowding mastic between strips. Stagger ends. Do not pound direct on edge of blocks. Place a short section of 2 x 4 lumber on edge and pound only the 2 x 4 with mallet to avoid edge damage. Continue to snap lines to maintain squareness. All mastic must be kept off exposed surfaces. Keep lines straight.

CUTTING

Strip ends will be square as received. When you reach a wall or column and need shorter lengths, be sure your end cut is exactly square to the strip length. Occasionally some blocks are slightly angled within the strip and removing blocks without cutting square to strip length can be one end out of square. Fill expansion void with cork. The lines created from individual blocks should be kept straight and parallel, and joints should be broken by a lap of at least one inch.

SAND AND FILL (3 GRITS)

(1) Using drum belt sander, first with 60 grit. (2) Vacuum clean and fill any large cracks with stain accepting patch compound to specified color as furnished by Kaswell & Co., Inc., and manufactured by Laurence-David., P. O. Box 2484, Eugene, OR 97402, or equivalent. Using pressure gun, machine trowel, or putty knife force deep and solid into the voids. Allow to dry thoroughly (usually 2 hours). (3) With the drum, make a second pass with 80 grit (this will clean discoloration caused by patch compound). (4) Now using a rotary machine lightly, sand with a 100 grit disc or screen. Eliminate all scratch marks and other blemishes; otherwise they will be magnified when the finish is applied. Be absolutely sure no liquids (paint, water, mud, etc.) touch this floor and keep everyone out of the room until the surface is protected. If there is a time lag between sanding and finishing, resin spots might appear; however, they will disappear when finish is applied.

CLEAN

Vacuum and sweep clean. Remove all sources of dust and other particles from ledges, radiators, etc.

FOR OIL FINISH:

Use Watco #66 pigmented to your choice of color (2-6-1, Teak, Dark Walnut, etc.). This oil is formulated for 100% penetration. It is not a topcoat. Apply with lambs wool or spray. Agitate oil in cans or drums prior to and during application to insure even color. Wear an approved respirator for organic vapor mist.

CONTINUOUSLY APPLY & REAPPLY IN SATURATION QUANTITY to large checkerboard sections. Organize quantity and placement of cans so that your coverage will approximate:

• 100 sq. ft. per gallon first application
• 150 sq. ft. per gallon second application
• 200 sq. ft. per gallon third application

Allow 12 or more hours between applications for solvent evaporation leaving room in the wood for additional penetration.

BE SURE THE OIL PENETRATES 100%. Between 20 and 30 minutes always after each application, check entire floor to be absolutely sure there are no damp or wet spots on the surface. Shining or wet looking areas are an indication of excess oil on the surface and MUST be removed immediately. If allowed to dry on top, they will blotch surface. Leave the floor totally dry and uniformly full. If oil left over, the owner can use it for maintenance.

Allow last application to dry at least 24 hours (or longer up to a week) and then buff only with a high speed rotary turning pad at 1100 RPM or faster. Use the pad (abrasive side down) furnished by Kaswell & Co., Inc. which is a surface conditioning disc manufactured by 3M. Repeatedly remove resin buildup on the pad with lacquer thinner and a wire brush otherwise it will only smear.

REMEMBER, LACQUER THINNER IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE AND YOU MUST USE EXTRA CAUTION TO AVOID SPARKS. CLEAN ONLY AWAY FROM ALL SOURCES OF IGNITION. Pads are reusable if kept clean. Treat like a paint brush.

AVOID SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION - Water soak all oily cloths after use and place outside of buildings and away from combustible materials. After Oil Finish application(s) are complete, the surface can be top coated with Urethane. If urethane is applied, no future oilings can ever be made unless stripping back with sanding machines.

MAINTENANCE

WITHIN 30 TO 60 DAYS, the owner or contractor should re-oil lightly and buff with a high speed buffer following the above instructions. Oil coverage approximately 400-500 square feet per gallon. Repeat oiling every 6 months until floor is full and no more oil will penetrate. This will vary according to traffic, however, a total fill is usually accomplished within a year. When properly oiled (always with 100% penetration), it is immediately usable. Never allow any damp or wet spots to stand more then 30 minutes. Always wipe clean and dry all damp or wet spots and leave them uniformly dull. Lustre comes later.

ANNUAL

After thorough cleaning, apply Watco Satin Oil lightly again, being sure penetration is 100%. Buff as usual. Disregard oiling if it does not penetrate. As the oil ages, it will harden, and dry buffing will bring the flooring to a dull lustre.

BURNS AND SCRATCHES

Spot repair by wetting with Watco Satin Oil and hand sanding out with wet or dry 400 grit sandpaper. Because conditions of use are totally beyond our control, no liability whatsoever can be accepted for any direct or indirect damage arising from use of these products.

FOR URETHANE FINISH:

After sanding is completed blocks may be coated with water base urethane for the lightest result. The first two applications should be pad applied. After the second application has dried, all voids should be filled. Solvent based coatings also can be used. However, solvent based coatings can add a yellow hue. For lightest and most natural color, water base urethane should be used, and we recommend "Traffic" finish by Bona Kemi. After sufficient drying, and prior to the final application (coat 3# or #4), the entire floor area should be screened lightly with 150 grit screen or red inner-coat pad to remove all dust and other particles in the finish. Tack rag the buffed surface with a damp towel. The buffed surface may be acceptable for use, or apply one or two additional coats of urethane.

MAINTENANCE: DAILY OR AS REQUIRED:

Depending on job location and season of the year when installed, a return trip to refill and reseal may be necessary. Screen with 150 grit screen, refill, and reapply with one or two coats of water base urethane. Dry Buff daily with soft pads and or vacuum/sweep. Damp mop, providing mops are always wrung close to dry. Absolutely no puddles or soaking whatsoever.

The following notice is attached to our pallets and boxes of wood block flooring:

1. Heating, air conditioning, and humidity controls all operating, humidity consistently normal (35% to 50%), and doors and windows closed.
2. After HVAC is on long enough to duplicate the same humidity and temperature that will prevail after occupancy, then and only then open pallets of block, and destroy all palletization for acclimation. Length of acclimation must be at the discretion of the installing contractor. Because of the possibility of wide variations in working conditions, the season of the year, the condition of the blocks when first delivered (i.e., moisture content), deviations and adjustments in the acclimation and installation schedules may be required. Decisions for these specification adjustments should be made only by qualified or experienced personnel. Therefore, Kaswell & Co. Inc. cannot accept the responsibility for the results of installations made by others.
3. Slab checked for smoothness and not to exceed ¼” in 10’ with a straight edge. Low spots (washboard type) must be filled with leveling compound. Insist masonry contractor make necessary corrections.
4. KASWELL & CO. finishing and application instructions in your possession.
5. Doors and windows closed, being certain there are no temporary sources of moisture from plaster, concrete, or other wet work.
6. WARNING: If either acclimated or installed prior to total HVAC normalization, the unfinished blocks will absorb excess moisture. Then when the heat or AC is later turned on there can be shrinking and unnecessary cracks, requiring expensive repair. When there is contractor or owner pressure to install before HVAC is on long enough to normalize the interior, please telephone 1-508-879-1120 so we can explain possible consequences.